Surrounded by misty, forest-covered mountains and centered around a serene, man-made lake, Kandy is unlike any other city in Sri Lanka. It served as the last capital of the ancient kings’ era and successfully resisted colonial rule for centuries before finally falling to the British in 1815. Because of this fierce independence, Kandy remains the undisputed stronghold of Sinhalese culture and Buddhist traditions on the island.
A visit to Kandy offers a distinctly different atmosphere compared to the sunny beaches of the south or the arid plains of the Cultural Triangle. The air is cooler, the pace is slightly more relaxed, and the historical significance of the city is palpable in its architecture and daily rituals. Whether you are a history buff, a nature lover, or a traveler seeking spiritual insight, Kandy has an abundance of experiences to offer. Here is your guide to the best things to do in the cultural heart of Sri Lanka.
1. Visit the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic (Sri Dalada Maligawa)
The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic is not just the most important site in Kandy; it is arguably the most sacred Buddhist site in all of Sri Lanka. The temple complex, housed within the royal palace grounds, holds a relic believed to be a tooth of the Buddha himself. Legend has it that the tooth was smuggled into Sri Lanka hidden in the hair of a princess in the 4th century to protect it from falling into the wrong hands.
Visiting the temple is a profound cultural experience. The complex is beautiful, featuring intricate wooden carvings, painted ceilings, and silver and gold shrines. To experience the temple at its most vibrant, try to time your visit during one of the daily “pooja” (offerings or prayers) ceremonies, held at dawn, noon, and in the evening. During these times, the temple fills with the sound of traditional drumming, the heavy scent of incense and lotus flowers, and crowds of devout worshippers dressed in white. Remember to dress modestly, covering your shoulders and knees, as this is a highly venerated site.
2. Stroll Around Kandy Lake
Dominating the center of the city is Kandy Lake (Bogambara Lake), an artificial lake created in 1807 by the last ruler of the Kingdom of Kandy, Sri Wickrama Rajasinghe. The lake provides a beautiful, calm focal point amidst the hustle and bustle of the city.
A leisurely walk around the lake’s perimeter is a fantastic way to orient yourself in the city. The walk takes about an hour, and the path is shaded by large trees. Along the way, you will likely spot monitor lizards sunbathing on the banks, pelicans resting on the small island in the center, and a variety of other birdlife. The decorative wall surrounding the lake, known as the Walakulu (clouds) wall, remains unfinished because the king was captured by the British before it could be completed.
3. Explore the Royal Botanical Gardens, Peradeniya
Located just a few kilometers outside the city center, the Royal Botanical Gardens in Peradeniya are renowned as some of the finest botanical gardens in Asia. Originally established as a pleasure garden for a Kandyan king, the grounds were later expanded and formally structured by the British in the 19th century.
Covering 147 acres, the gardens are meticulously maintained and feature over 4,000 species of plants, including a staggering variety of orchids, spices, medicinal plants, and palm trees. Highlights include the Avenue of Royal Palms, the Giant Javan Fig Tree (whose massive canopy covers over 2,500 square meters), and the orchid house. It is the perfect place to escape the noise of the city, enjoy a picnic on the sprawling lawns, and spend a few hours immersed in nature.
4. Climb to the Bahirawakanda Vihara Buddha Statue
No matter where you are in Kandy, you will likely see a massive, gleaming white Buddha statue looking down upon the city from the hills above. This is the Bahirawakanda Vihara Buddha, standing at an impressive 88 feet tall. It is one of the tallest Buddha statues in Sri Lanka and serves as a protective emblem for the city.
You can reach the statue by taking a short, steep tuk-tuk ride from the city center, followed by a climb up a series of stairs. The real reward for visiting this site, aside from the impressive statue itself, is the view. The terrace at the base of the statue offers a sweeping, unobstructed panoramic view of Kandy city, the lake, and the surrounding mountain ranges. It is particularly beautiful at sunset or when illuminated at night.
5. Experience a Kandyan Cultural Dance Show
Kandy is the birthplace of a unique style of traditional dance that has its roots in ancient exorcism rituals. Today, Kandyan dance is a highly stylized, acrobatic art form that is deeply ingrained in the local culture. Several venues around the city host nightly cultural shows specifically designed to showcase these traditions.
A typical show features men and women in elaborate, brightly colored traditional costumes adorned with silver jewelry. The performances include vigorous drumming, backflips, spinning, and rhythmic footwork. The climax of the show usually takes place outside, where performers demonstrate incredible bravery (and heavily calloused feet) by walking barefoot across red-hot coals and engaging in fire-breathing. It is a loud, energetic, and thoroughly entertaining introduction to local folklore.
6. Wander Through the Udawatta Kele Sanctuary
Located on a ridge just behind the Temple of the Tooth is the Udawatta Kele Sanctuary, a historic forest reserve that was once strictly reserved for the Kandyan royals. Today, it serves as the green lungs of the city and offers a peaceful retreat for nature lovers.
The sanctuary is crisscrossed with well-maintained walking trails that wind through dense jungle canopy. It is a fantastic spot for bird watching and spotting troops of macaques and purple-faced langurs. The forest is also home to ancient hermitages and caves that were used by Buddhist monks for meditation centuries ago. The contrast of walking through a quiet, dense jungle just minutes away from a busy city center is a uniquely Kandyan experience.
7. Step Back in Time at the Ceylon Tea Museum
While Nuwara Eliya and Ella are more famous for their rolling tea estates, Kandy also played a crucial role in the history of Sri Lankan tea. Located in Hantana, a short drive from Kandy, is the Ceylon Tea Museum. It is housed in an abandoned four-story tea factory built in 1925.
The museum provides a comprehensive history of the tea industry in Sri Lanka, from the early days of James Taylor and Thomas Lipton to the modern era. The lower floors display heavy, vintage tea-processing machinery, while the upper floors house a library, a viewing deck with panoramic views of the Hantana mountain range, and a cafe where you can sample various grades of Ceylon tea.
Conclusion
Kandy is a city that requires a slower pace to fully appreciate. It is a place where history is not just confined to museums, but is actively lived and breathed in the temples, the streets, and the daily lives of the people. From the spiritual resonance of the Temple of the Tooth to the natural beauty of the surrounding hills and gardens, Kandy offers a rich, culturally immersive experience that forms a vital chapter in any Sri Lankan itinerary.